Wednesday, October 30, 2013
Ficus Carica, The Common Fig
Incredibly, I find myself having again neglected this medium during the warm, lazy summer months (and a few more) only to be inspired, again, by the common fig. I know what I love about this fruit - that it can be simultaneously sweet and savory, its fragility in texture and taste, that soft skin. A fig can be so sexy and yet so damn dumpy, all at the same time. Like an aging opera signer who can still hit every high note.
The Buddha, it is somehow consoling to know, in the search for perfect understanding, sat in meditation beneath a fig - a bo - tree.
I've discovered two very large secret fig trees and all of the fruit is for me and the birds, who certainly have had their fair share. In just about ten minutes I managed to pick nearly 6 1/2 pounds of luscious, gorgeously ripe figs, which I brought home to preserve, roast, slice - to devour in every which way.
At first I simply binged on figs. Just fresh figs. I picked out the ripest of the ripest and couldn't help but eat handful after handful. Every time I bit into a green fig and saw that hot pink interior, I had to eat another, just to make sure it was as dazzling as the last. Although it probably cannot be helped, I would not necessarily recommend this - your belly will thank me - and besides, when you add just a touch of heat to a ripe fig it transforms into one of nature's sweetest edibles.
The recipes for figs are endless, and I shan't wax on too long. But to begin, start simply.
BROILED FIGS
fresh, ripe figs, cut in half
honey
Drizzle honey over figs and broil for about 15 minutes, or until figs are starting to bubble and are heated through. Serve with yogurt, whipped cream, mascarpone, or ice cream. They are particularly tasty with Strawberry or Lemon Verbena Ice Cream, below.
LEMON VERBENA ICE CREAM
adapted from David Lebovitz
1 1/2 cups loosely packed lemon verbena leaves
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup sugar
pinch of salt
3 egg yolks
In a medium saucepan, warm the milk, 1/2 cup cream, sugar, salt, and lemon verbena leaves. Do not bring to a boil!
Once warm, remove from heat and let steep for at least an hour.
To make custard, pour remaining cream into a large bowl set atop a bowl of ice water.
Remove the lemon verbena leaves and discard. Rewarm the infused milk-cream mixture. In a separate bowl, whisk together egg yolks and very slowly, whisking constantly, add the warm infusion. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook, stirring continuously until the custard coats the back of a wooden spoon. It should be thick enough that you can run your finger through it, leaving a trail.
Immediately strain the custard through a fine mesh sieve into the cold cream. Stir until cool.
Chill thoroughly - overnight is best - and then process in your ice cream maker.
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