Monday, January 13, 2014

Saffrony Cauliflower, Parsley, Parsley, Parsley, and Orecchiette


Daniel swears that orecchiette is the most superior pasta shape.  I'm not entirely convinced.  Sometimes I am partial to classic spaghetti (because twirling it around my fork and slurping it up is extremely satisfying), but I have learned to appreciate and love the nooks and crannies offered by orecchiette.  Little nuggets of flavor hide away, providing each forkful with a tasty surprise.  With the right sauce, nothing beats those little pasta ears.  And there are few recipes that are more delightful to serve with orecchiette than this.  The saffron flavors the cauliflower, but also dyes it a beautiful yellow hue, which matches perfectly with the pasta.  Camouflaged cauliflower!  You can't quite tell what you have at the end of your fork.  Pasta?  Cauliflower?  Who cares.  Every bite of this adventure is incredibly delicious.  Dig in.

Saffrony Cauliflower with A Lot of Parsley and Orecchiette
adapted ever so slightly from Deborah Madison's Vegetable Literacy

Serves 2

1/2 cauliflower (about 3/4 pound), cut into small florets
olive oil
1/2 onion, finely diced
2 pinches of saffron threads
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 tsp red pepper flakes
4 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
splash of dry white wine
salt
oriecchiette
grated parmesan cheese for serving

Blanch cauliflower in boiling water until just barely tender, about two minutes.  Drain and set aside. 

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.

Heat the oil in a wide skillet over medium heat.  Add the onion and saffron and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is soft, 6 minutes or so.  The steam will activate the saffron so that it stains and flavors the onion.  Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, and a pinch or two of the parsley.  Stir, then add the cauliflower.  Toss the cauliflower to coat it with the seasonings, add 1/4 water and a splash of white wine, and cook over medium heat until the cauliflower is tender. Just a few minutes - don't overcook or everything will be mushy.  Season with salt, toss with half the remaining parsley and keep warm. 

Cook your orecchiette and drain.  Transfer to a bowl and toss with a little olive oil and the remaining parsley.  Taste for salt and spoon cauliflower over the pasta.  And as Deborah says, wiggle some of it into the pasta crevices.  Serve with grated parmesan cheese and a fresh green salad.  



What to drink with such a charming weeknight meal?  How about something a tad adventurous and mightily foreign?

2012 Gomphof Sudtiroler Vernatsch.  ($24)  But of course!

Let's break that down.

Gomphof is the name of the producer.  Located in the Isarco Valley in the tippity top of Italy, this organic winery is run by a father and son team.  They plant their grapes on the sunny steep slopes of the valley at high elevation.  Pruning and picking must be a bitch.  These men are clearly dedicated.

Sudtiroler simply means South Tyrolean in German to indicate the Italian wine region of South Tyrol.  It is more commonly known by its Italian name, Alto Adige.

Vernatsch is the grape varietal.  It is the South Tyrolean name for the Italian grape Schiava or Trollinger (which is German), and is sometimes referred to as Black Hamburg (!).  It is very thin skinned and generally produces a light-bodied and high acid wine.


This particular bottle showcased the grape's natural fruitiness with enough bright acidity to keep it balanced.  I found it tasting of fresh strawberries, and when paired with the pasta dinner, it began whispering of cinnamon, cardamom, and a little clove.  Just complex enough to keep me interested, but simple enough to let the saffron and cauliflower dominate the palate, it was a lovely pairing.

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