The 5 months I spent in Rome in my early twenties were some of the most delicious, indulgent and rewarding of my life. This city is an unbelievable mishmash of modern and ancient, fabulous and bizarre, decadent and decayed. Around every corner is a thousand year old secret, just waiting for me to happen upon unexpectedly. The Pantheon is so hidden in a maze of cobblestone streets and a sea of tourists that you don't even realize you've found it until you've nearly smacked right into the front door. All of the chaos surrounding that ancient temple melts away the moment you enter the inner sanctum, which is so humbling that anything more than a whisper seems disrespectful. It is this juxtaposition between contemporary disorder and crumbling sanctity that sparked inspiration and wonderment in my young little mind.
The food in Rome continued this pattern of blending high and low, old and new. If you knew where to go (blessedly I had plenty of time to make many many mistakes before finding the local gems), it was possible to have an outstanding Italian feast with few frills. In fact, the more frills, the less likely you've found someplace traditional. My absolute favorite was Pizzeria ai Marmi, named for the marble tabletops in the restaurant. Just off the main street running through the Trastevere neighborhood, the interior of this pizzeria is absolutely barebones, the volume is loud and it is always crowded. It has been many years since I was a frequent visitor, so it might not be as amazing/maybe everyone goes here now and is just for tourists, but I'll just keep picturing it as it was then: superb. House wine in carafes, the simplest of pizzas, happy tradition.
My favorite of their pies involved a light red sauce, anchovies and zucchini blossoms. Upon spying these gorgeous flowers at the farmer's market last week I recalled my ai Marmi meals and knew immediately what we were going to have for dinner that night. Daniel maybe was a little skeptical, but as soon as I began waxing lyrical about the greatness of my inspiration, he happily let me get to work. This pizza is utterly simplistic - the ingredients are scant but pungent, the crust is thin with a slight chewiness. Zucchini blossoms, though very pretty, are not bringing a whole lot of flavor to the dish, which is why the red pepper flakes and anchovy are essential. It doesn't need to look perfect and symmetrical, in fact I like it looking a little messy.
To drink: definitely a few glasses of an Italian red wine! Our newest favorite is a light red from the Piedmont region in Northern Italy. Produced by Marco Tintero, this "Rosso" is a blend of primarily Nebbiolo and Barbera with a touch of Dolcetto and Cabernet Franc for lightness and verve. The Barbera tames the tannins of the Nebbiolo, creating a soft, vibrant and wholly drinkable wine. The fruity acidity is reminiscent of just ripe cherries and raspberries, balanced by a touch of earthy herbal spice. All of the ingredients of the pizza played very nicely with this exceptionally food-friendly wine, and at just over $10 a bottle, how could it get much better?
ZUCCHINI FLOWER PIZZA
1 ball pizza dough, see my recipe here
pizza sauce (recipe to follow)
6 - 8 zucchini flowers
6 - 8 anchovy fillets
mozzarella
basil
THE SAUCE
1 28oz can of whole, peeled tomatoes
pinch of sugar
a little more than a pinch of salt
1 clove garlic
1 tbsp dried oregano
red pepper flakes, to taste
Put tomatoes in a fine-meshed sieve over a bowl and let drain. Mash the tomatoes with the back of a spoon to get out as much juice as possible. Save tomato juice for dressings, bloody marys or stocks.
In a bowl or blender, combine all ingredients and whizz until smooth. I use an immersion blender, which works beautifully. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.
Preheat oven as hot as it will go - 550 degrees if possible.
ROLL OUT THE DOUGH
Lay down some parchment paper and use semolina flour to keep the dough from sticking. Using a rolling pin or your hands, stretch the dough until it is quite thin, then lay it on the parchment paper.
Spoon sauce over dough. Top with anchovy fillets, zucchini blossoms, and torn mozzarella. Slide pizza (and parchment paper) onto your pizza stone and cook for 8 - 10 minutes, depending on your oven. The crust should be browning and the cheese bubbly.
Remove from oven. Top with basil and more red pepper flakes. Slice and serve.
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