2 0 1 5 ! and Braised Lamb Shanks

Happy New Year, friends!

As always, the turning of the new year is a moment of introspection, which for me often leads to self-pity, confusion, frustration, and then doused with a Champagne-infused miracle, I embrace the "fuck-it" mantra and suddenly feel like a million bucks.  Welcome to 2015, where spirits run free and I do what I want.  I'm turning 30 this year and am fighting the inadequacy of my 20s with fervent irreverence.

I hate that the New Year is the Hallmark holiday for changing our attitudes, as though all the other days on the calender merely exist for us to make excuses for our collective bad behavior. Unfortunately, it still gets me, the sucker, every year.  The last few New Years have been an emotional roller coaster that I can't believe I bought a ticket for.  Life is confusing and challenging and it seems wildly unfair to dump it all on a holiday that is specifically meant for good eating and good drinking, yet here we are again.

Admittedly, this is my personal problem.  I'm sure all of you have the merriest of times, sparklers and caviar and all.  I'm working on it.  As I mentioned, fuck-it.

In spite of my deeply muddled reflections, Daniel and I did manage to pull off an amazing and celebratory meal.  It came hours after our car broke down and was a complete wing-it of a meal, but that didn't keep it from being an absolute joy.  Without a car and on vacation, our shopping options were limited, (read: NO GO on the oysters and scallops we were planning), but two hefty lamb shanks provided ample inspiration.  I had recently read an article in the NY Times about braised lamb shanks and decided to use that as our guide, with minor modifications, of course.

We skipped the rose water, saffron, rose buds, and nutmeg in favor of more easily accessible Moroccan spices like turmeric, cumin, cinnamon, and coriander.  Following the recipe, we salted the shanks and let them sit for at least an hour before browning.  Next, we sauteed chopped onion and carrots with spices, orange and lime zest, and salt and pepper.  Threw in the browned lamb and stock and braised it all in the oven for almost two hours.  Considering you need to stay up until midnight, a late dinner is extremely helpful.

Paired with apricot-studded quinoa and a raw brussels sprout salad with parmesan and almonds, the lamb was a stunning success: fall-off-the-bone tender, flavorful, slightly sweet yet still savory, and garnished with a handful of fresh herbs.  It was an outstanding sendoff for 2014, despite my best efforts to ruin the evening with the usual emotional melodrama.

BRAISED LAMB SHANKS with MOROCCAN SPICES
Serves 4

2 lamb shanks, about 2 1/2 - 3 pounds
salt
1/2 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp coriander

vegetable oil

1 yellow onion, chopped
1 large carrot, chopped
1 orange, zested and juiced
1 limes, zested and juiced
1 1/2 tsp cumin
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp coriander
1/2 tsp cardamon
pinch of cayenne
salt and pepper

 a few thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
4 - 5 cups chicken stock

Trim any excess fat from the lamb shanks and pat dry.  Season generously with salt.  Mix together the first list of spices and sprinkle over the lamb, rubbing into the meat.  Let sit at room temperature for at least an hour. 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a heavy bottomed Dutch oven or a deep cast-iron pot, heat about a half inch of vegetable oil until shimmering.  Cook the lamb shanks on each side until nicely browned, about 5 minutes.  Remove from pan and set aside.  Pour out all but a few tablespoons of oil. 

Saute the onion until softening.  Add the remainder of the spices, half of the orange zest, lime zest and salt and pepper.  Add carrots and continue to cook until just beginning to soften.  

Lay in the lamb shanks and add the broth, orange juice and lime juice.  The liquid should just about cover the shanks, so add more broth if necessary.  Bake in the oven, covered, for about 1 1/2 - 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender and falling away from the bone.  

Remove shanks and keep warm.  Skim the fat off the braising liquid, then reheat and cook down until slightly thickened - just a few minutes.  If you would prefer a thicker gravy, reduce down until you reach desired consistency.  Remove thyme sprigs and bay leaves.  

Serve lamb shanks on a bed of quinoa with sauce poured over top and garnished with freshly chopped parsley, mint and orange zest.  

*This would also be excellent served with warm pita, basmati rice, or just a loaf of crusty French bread.*  

Happy Winter Solstice!

Fork.  The shortest day of the year may come as a dismal reminder that winter is upon us, promising many cold nights and crisp days.  Snow and ice and doom and gloom.  I can't say I'm thrilled by the low temperatures, but the darkness of the season certainly begs for cozy evenings and slow cooked meals.  So don't despair!  As you're lamenting the absence of August blueberries and September tomatoes, turn to the bright tang of December citrus to brighten your day.

Paired with red wine and balsamic vinegar, orange juice is a zippy braising liquid for gamey lamb chops.  Add dried apricots, olives and fennel and you have a wonderfully rich winter dish sure to be a optimistic reminder of the season.

Solstice Braised Lamb

orange, balsamic, fennel, apricot, olive

2 lamb shoulder chops

1 tsp fennel seeds, toasted and finely ground

1 tsp vegetable oil

1/8 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup red wine

1 cup orange juice (preferably fresh)

a good handful of dried apricots

a good handful of cured olives, pitted

2 bay leaves

zest of 1 orange

1. Trim your lamb chops and season with ground fennel, salt and pepper.  Heat oil in a large, high-sided ovenproof skillet over high heat.  Sear chops until well browned, about 5 minutes per side. 


2. Add wine and vinegar.  Boil until slightly reduced, about 2 minutes.  Add orange juice, apricots, olives, orange zest and bay leaves.  

3. Braise lamb in oven, covered, for 45 minutes.  Uncover and continue cooking until meat is very tender and falling off the bone, about 45 minutes more.  Baste often.  

4. Reduce braising liquid on the stove until thickened and saucey.  Serve lamb with sauce. 

With kale salad and roasted butternut squash.

Glass.  Do eat this meal with a hearty red wine.  The orange sauce is intensely flavorful and demands a wine that is full-bodied and rich.  Lamb always seems to pair beautifully with the wines of Northern Rhone, and most favorably with Syrah.  All dark and earthy and black olivey.  Deep purple, warm spices.  We chose a new world Syrah, made with the Rhone Valley in mind.  Copain's 2007 Baker Ranch Syrah is all sorts of roasted fruit, black pepper, and bold olives.  The orange sauce popped and the meat sang.  And we reveled in winter cheer.

Play.  Long nights and short days are perfect excuses for cozy couch sessions with forgotten movies.  This tiny gem, which many have seen but only once, promises to bring a delightful warmth to the coldest of evenings.  Little Miss Sunshine is the charming story of a quirky family road trip, complete with hi-jinks, revelations, and dancing.  As the title suggests, the scenery is bright with the Southern sunshine and the main characters radiate an honest mix of melancholy, passion and joy.  Simply put, you'll feel happy when the credits roll and on the darkest of days, that's all we need.