Wednesday, September 25, 2013
Figs for days and days.
According to D. H. Lawrence:
The proper way to eat a fig, in society,
Is to split it in four, holding it by the stump,
And open it, so that it is a glittering, rosy, moist, honied, heavy petalled four-petalled flower.
Then you throw away the skin
Which is just like a four-sepalled calyx,
After you have taken off the blossom with your lips.
But the vulgar way
Is just to put your mouth to the crack, and take out the flesh in one bite.
Every fruit has its secret.
My private fig trees are proving to be bountiful this season and I couldn't be happier filling my basket with their endless supply. I stretch, I climb, I stoop and I pick, pick, pick. I've discovered dozens of new ways to eat figs. Simply - try with just a drizzle of good olive oil, balsamic vinegar, sliced tomatoes, feta, basil, and a handful of toasted sunflower seeds. Decadently - stuffed with blue cheese and my walnut pesto and broiled until bubbly. And finally, resourcefully - preserving every morsel in the form of jams, pickles, and chutneys.
Figs are one of the easiest of fruits to jam with. They are a breeze to prep - no seeds, pits, nor peels - and even the ripest of the ripest lend themselves to the most perfect of jammy consistency. I've found many recipes that call for equal parts figs to sugar, which is just way way too much by my standards. Figs are naturally very sweet and shouldn't be overwhelmed by additional sugar. You certainly need enough for the jam to set, but it shouldn't be cloying. I found one part fig to a half part sugar to be perfect. You can always adjust based on the sweetness of your figs.
Additions such as spices, vanilla, lemon, and herbs are all welcome here. Figs are particularly fond of lavender, honey, tarragon, balsamic and dark booze. I went the boozy route, obviously. And oh my - what a star of a jam! The brother drooled over it when paired with a tart, grassy Loire Valley goat cheese and would not shut up until I sent him home with a jar. The bourbon and lemon give it a bit of a kick while the brown sugar adds a deep richness and lovely mouth feel. After the cheese course, spoon it over grilled pork and then finally on a scoop vanilla ice cream and you'll have incorporated it into every dish of the meal.
FIG JAM
with Bourbon, Lemon, and Brown Sugar
3 pounds fresh, ripe figs - washed and cut into quarters
1 1/2 cups brown sugar
2 lemons - peel removed and sliced thinly, lemons are then juiced
1/2 cup bourbon
pinch of salt
To prepare your jars: wash them in hot soapy water and sterilize either in a water bath of boiling water or in a 275 degree oven for 15 minutes - jars should be HOT. Put lids in a pot of water, bring almost to a boil. Do not boil as it could effect the sealant. Put a small plate in the freezer for set test.
Combine all ingredients in a large pot. Let them sit for about an hour so the flavors start to develop and the figs begin to break down.
Turn the heat on low and bring to a gentle simmer, stirring often. Keep an eye on the jam and make sure it doesn't boil over. Stir often so it doesn't stick to the bottom of the saucepan.
After about 45 minutes to an hour, check the consistency. The jam should start to look a little syrupy and reduced. Turn off the heat and spoon a little of the jam onto the plate in the freezer. Return to the freezer and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Remove and do the wrinkle test - push your finger through the jam and if it wrinkles up, it's set!
Bring the jam back to a low simmer and carefully ladle it into your sterilized jars. A jam funnel helps immensely with this step. Wipe the rims clean and screw on your lids. Process them a large pot of boiling water for about 15 - 20 minutes. Remove and within the next few hours you'll hear the telling pop of the lids - they are sealed! Store in cool dark place for about a year.
Labels:
bourbon,
D. H. Lawrence,
figs,
fruit,
goat cheese,
jam,
lemon
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