Sunday, September 29, 2013

That wow factor.


Everyone can make pretty good food.  Apply heat, add salt, eat.  Follow directions and dinner will be served.  If you can read a recipe, you can make something to fill you up.  But, there are just a few people that can make exceptional food.  I've found that usually the differences in technique are miniscule, but the outcomes can be substantial and special.

I had an aha (!) moment last week, which led to something crazy delicious.  And it is so simple.  And I am obsessed.  Almost every recipe that calls for a seed or nut asks you to toast them first.  Of course, I usually do - I love that depth of flavor that is brought out with slight browning.  When I'm behind or stressed or can't be bothered, I skip that step.  Never again, especially with sunflower seeds.

Looking back, the first time I had toasted sunflower seeds and was impressed with their complex flavor was at a restaurant in Brooklyn, where the chef had brilliantly garnished branzino crudo with a sprinkling of the seeds.  Since eating that dish I have tried to recall every component and always had difficulty placing that exceptional flavor, that umami quality that lingers long after the meal is over.  That wow factor.

Last week I was making a simple tomato and fig salad and didn't have the pine nuts that were called for.  Instead, I threw some sunflower seeds in skillet, lightly toasted them, and tossed them with the salad.  Amazing!  Now I add them to everything and I don't even care.  They take every dish to that next level of tasty - from pretty good to sublime.  With a little salt, they taste like popcorn.  I love them so much that I stopped writing this post just to toast up a fresh batch.  Eating them right out of the pan, still warm, is a treat.  Mixed with a handful of almonds and you have a complete snack.

TOASTED SUNFLOWER SEEDS

sunflower seeds
salt

Throw a handful of sunflower seeds into a dry skillet over med-high heat.  Don't walk away!  Keep tossing in the pan until evenly browned and toasty.  Sprinkle with salt while still warm.


EGGPLANT AND TOMATO SALAD WITH TOASTED SUNFLOWER SEEDS

1 medium eggplant
3 - 4 medium tomatoes
a handful of cherry tomatoes, halved
3 tbsp olive oil, divided
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp lemon juice
a mix of chopped herbs (parsley, tarragon, basil, chives, etc.)
1/2 cup quinoa, cooked
1/2 cup brown rice, cooked
1/2 cup toasted sunflower seeds

Preheat your oven to 425.  Dice the eggplant into 1 inch cubes.  Toss with 2 tbsp oil, salt and pepper.  On an oiled baking sheet, roast the eggplant for about 25 minutes, or until soft and starting to brown. 

Cut the medium tomatoes into large wedges.  Drizzle with the remaining tbsp of olive oil, salt and pepper and roast in the oven for 8-10 minutes, until the tomatoes are soft and are releasing their juices.  

In a small bowl, mix together the cooked grains, the warm tomatoes with their juices, cherry tomatoes, and eggplant.  Add lemon juice and red wine vinegar, stirring so all ingredients are evenly coated.  Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.  Just before serving, mix in the chopped herbs and top with the toasted sunflower seeds.  

We ate this late summer salad alongside a beautiful piece of grilled halibut and an arugula salad, but it is substantial enough to be a main course.  Especially if you added feta or a few pieces of torn mozzarella.

For a libation to pair with this lovely meal, we chose Chablis.  Jean-Marc Brocard has been making chardonnay in Chablis for decades and since 1998 has been farming biodynamically.  The care and attention he devotes to his vineyards is apparent in each sip of this delightful wine, but it is the Kimmeridgian soil that makes his wines exceptional.  One whiff and you'll pick up notes of limestone, steel, and fresh herbs.  Light and clean, pure minerality, pleasant chalkiness and just a touch of fruity lemon.  It paired perfectly with our bright herb sauce for the halibut and the toastiness of the sunflower seeds brought out the chardonnay's natural depth and richness, which I might have otherwise overlooked.  At just $22, this wine is a steal and this producer is one to always keep an eye out for - he recognizes the beauty of Chablis soil and lets it do all the work for him, as any noteworthy winemaker should. 

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