Sorrel Dressing with Anchovies and Capers + Spring

It's May and I need to do some serious spring cleaning.  Suddenly the house feels cluttered and dusty.  The countless jars of dried beans and pastas and bizarre flours that I'm never going to use are starting to make me claustrophobic.  The piles of books that I've been meaning to read teeter dangerously amongst a winter's worth of New Yorker magazines and countless volumes of Vogue - I was suckered into a subscription after a blurry red-eye trip.  2 dollars an issue?  How could I afford not to?

And this little pocket of culinary adventures has been completely ignored throughout the winter.  Don't worry, we've been eating and drinking and playing with enthusiasm, but the writing bit has been difficult.  I have plenty of excuses (and pretty good ones too!) - my computer blew up, my job has been extraordinarily demanding, and when I come home and it's already dark I just don't want to.  I'm an adult and I do what I want.

Nevertheless, winter is well in the past and I've got spring invading my kitchen.  Green, green, green and more green.  Peas and artichokes and favas galore!  Asparagus for miles.  That first taste of fresh spring produce is as delightful as that first sip of rose or the pretty flowered dress I'm wearing today, which hasn't seen the world since September.  Welcome back sun!  Welcome back pretty dress!  Welcome back me!

To honor the season with one of the ultimate spring ingredients, I've made the most delicious dressing.  Or maybe it's more of a pesto?  Could be a dip.

We have sorrel growing in the herb garden and I've lagged on how to use it.  The leaves are bright and zes-ty.  Some (maybe me at one point) would probably call them "too intense" but these people would be wrong.  Their lemony bite is an incredible addition to vinaigrettes, sauces, and even raw in salads.  It perks up the dish, pairing exceptionally with seafood, salmon, cream and eggs.  Here, I wanted something with a pungent tang to dress up earthy kale and roasted vegetables, so I combined sorrel with anchovies and capers for a saucy little salad dressing.  It wakes up your palate and clears away those winter cobwebs in one bite.

*If you don't have the luxury of growing your own sorrel, it can often be found at farmers' markets.  In a pinch, peppery arugula could be substituted - the dressing will be different, but still delicious.*

Spring Salad with Sorrel-Anchovy Dressing and a Soft-Boiled Egg
Serves 4

For salad: 

1 lb kale, center stalks removed, torn into bite-sized pieces (about 8 cups)
2 carrots, peeled and cut into two inch pieces
1 red bell pepper, pith and seeds removed, cut into one inch strips
1 avocado, pit removed, cut into chunks
4 - 5 radishes, thinly sliced
4 eggs
parmesan for serving
6 anchovy filets, chopped (optional)
olive oil, salt, pepper

For dressing: 

1 cup sorrel, chopped
1 garlic clove, smashed
6 anchovy filets
1 heaping tsp capers
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp dijon mustard
1/2 cup (or more) olive oil

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. 

Toss carrots and red pepper with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast on separate trays in oven, stirring occasionally, until slightly charred and cooked through (about 20 minutes).  

To prepare dressing, pulse all ingredients together in a food processor (or use an immersion blender) until smooth.  Add more olive oil if a thinner texture is desired. 

Massage the kale with a few tablespoons of dressing - use enough so the kale is coated and beginning to soften. 

On each plate, place a heaping pile of kale.  Top with roasted carrots, peppers, avocado and radishes.  Add chopped anchovies, if using (do it!).  

Bring a small pot of water to a boil.  When water is at a rolling boil, gently lower eggs into the water.  Set a timer for 6 minutes.  When cooked, remove eggs from the pot and run them under cold water.  Carefully peel the eggs and immediately place one on each salad.  Top with grated parmesan and a few spoonfuls more of sorrel dressing.  

That wow factor.

Everyone can make pretty good food.  Apply heat, add salt, eat.  Follow directions and dinner will be served.  If you can read a recipe, you can make something to fill you up.  But, there are just a few people that can make exceptional food.  I've found that usually the differences in technique are miniscule, but the outcomes can be substantial and special.

I had an aha (!) moment last week, which led to something crazy delicious.  And it is so simple.  And I am obsessed.  Almost every recipe that calls for a seed or nut asks you to toast them first.  Of course, I usually do - I love that depth of flavor that is brought out with slight browning.  When I'm behind or stressed or can't be bothered, I skip that step.  Never again, especially with sunflower seeds.

Looking back, the first time I had toasted sunflower seeds and was impressed with their complex flavor was at a restaurant in Brooklyn, where the chef had brilliantly garnished branzino crudo with a sprinkling of the seeds.  Since eating that dish I have tried to recall every component and always had difficulty placing that exceptional flavor, that umami quality that lingers long after the meal is over.  That wow factor.

Last week I was making a simple tomato and fig salad and didn't have the pine nuts that were called for.  Instead, I threw some sunflower seeds in skillet, lightly toasted them, and tossed them with the salad.  Amazing!  Now I add them to everything and I don't even care.  They take every dish to that next level of tasty - from pretty good to sublime.  With a little salt, they taste like popcorn.  I love them so much that I stopped writing this post just to toast up a fresh batch.  Eating them right out of the pan, still warm, is a treat.  Mixed with a handful of almonds and you have a complete snack.

TOASTED SUNFLOWER SEEDS

sunflower seeds
salt

Throw a handful of sunflower seeds into a dry skillet over med-high heat.  Don't walk away!  Keep tossing in the pan until evenly browned and toasty.  Sprinkle with salt while still warm.

EGGPLANT AND TOMATO SALAD WITH TOASTED SUNFLOWER SEEDS

1 medium eggplant
3 - 4 medium tomatoes
a handful of cherry tomatoes, halved
3 tbsp olive oil, divided
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp lemon juice
a mix of chopped herbs (parsley, tarragon, basil, chives, etc.)
1/2 cup quinoa, cooked
1/2 cup brown rice, cooked
1/2 cup toasted sunflower seeds

Preheat your oven to 425.  Dice the eggplant into 1 inch cubes.  Toss with 2 tbsp oil, salt and pepper.  On an oiled baking sheet, roast the eggplant for about 25 minutes, or until soft and starting to brown. 

Cut the medium tomatoes into large wedges.  Drizzle with the remaining tbsp of olive oil, salt and pepper and roast in the oven for 8-10 minutes, until the tomatoes are soft and are releasing their juices.  

In a small bowl, mix together the cooked grains, the warm tomatoes with their juices, cherry tomatoes, and eggplant.  Add lemon juice and red wine vinegar, stirring so all ingredients are evenly coated.  Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.  Just before serving, mix in the chopped herbs and top with the toasted sunflower seeds.  

We ate this late summer salad alongside a beautiful piece of grilled halibut and an arugula salad, but it is substantial enough to be a main course.  Especially if you added feta or a few pieces of torn mozzarella.

For a libation to pair with this lovely meal, we chose Chablis.  Jean-Marc Brocard has been making chardonnay in Chablis for decades and since 1998 has been farming biodynamically.  The care and attention he devotes to his vineyards is apparent in each sip of this delightful wine, but it is the Kimmeridgian soil that makes his wines exceptional.  One whiff and you'll pick up notes of limestone, steel, and fresh herbs.  Light and clean, pure minerality, pleasant chalkiness and just a touch of fruity lemon.  It paired perfectly with our bright herb sauce for the halibut and the toastiness of the sunflower seeds brought out the chardonnay's natural depth and richness, which I might have otherwise overlooked.  At just $22, this wine is a steal and this producer is one to always keep an eye out for - he recognizes the beauty of Chablis soil and lets it do all the work for him, as any noteworthy winemaker should.