Spaghetti with Caramelized Lemon, Capers, and Black Olives

Sometimes all I need is a big bowl of spaghetti.  It's the twirling of the strands, the tender mouthfeel of perfectly cooked pasta, and the luxury of eating pure carbs for dinner.  Spaghetti, more than any other shape, is one of my ultimate comfort foods and I crave a heaping portion more often than my digestive tract would like.  No regrets!

Last night was one of those occasions, and when combined with that gnawing feeling of being poor, it makes for a satisfying and affordable weekday dinner.

If you have lemons and olive oil you can transform anything into a solid meal, but kick it up with other pantry staples like cured olives, capers, and parsley and now you have a dish to be proud of.  This meal couldn't be simpler, and any good cook can throw together a pasta dish, but this one is so balanced and flavorful that it guarantees to leave an impression.

To sip with our spaghetti we stayed frugal and opened a bottle of Franz Etz Gruner Veltliner from Austria.  Gruner, as I've mentioned before, is an under-appreciated grape that is a wonderful pairing with most of the foods I eat on a regular basis.  Think vegetables, salads, and fish.  It has a green, grassy flavor that is bolstered by notes of just under-ripe pear, honeydew melon, and chamomile.  The 2013 bottling from Franz Etz is particularly delightful and still tasty the next day when the acid has mellowed just a touch.  It paired perfectly with the sweet, tangy flavor of the caramelized lemons and held its own against the savory olives and capers, lightening up their pungency.  Also, like the M. Hofer Gruner I've written about, the Etz comes in a full liter at the exceptional price of $10 per bottle.  You cannot go wrong here. 

*Full disclosure: this whole post is totally inspired by Melissa Clark's genius recipe in the New York Times.  Apparently this recipe was the NYTimes' most popular in all of 2014, no surprise there.  Hers is a bit simpler and a perfect springboard into mine, which is a touch more savory and complicated.

SPAGHETTI with CARAMELIZED LEMON, CAPERS, and BLACK OLIVES
serves 4

4 lemons
1 pound spaghetti 
4 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp capers
pinch of sugar
1 tbsp butter
1 tsp red chili flakes
handful cured black olives
2 /3 cup grated parmesan, plus more for serving
2/3 cup chopped parsley, plus more for serving
salt and pepper

Bring a large pot of water to boil.  Meanwhile, zest 2 of the lemons and set aside.  Trim the tops and bottoms off the other two lemons and cut into quarters; remove seeds.  Cut them crosswise into small triangles.  Blanch the lemon pieces in the boiling water.  This helps to break down the pith and rind and removes their bitterness.  Using a slotted spoon, remove them and set aside to dry on a paper towel. 

In the boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente.  Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta water. 

Meanwhile, in a skillet, heat up 1 tbsp olive oil.  When shimmering, fry the capers until just crispy - only about 30 seconds.  Transfer to a paper towel to drain. 

In the same skillet, heat another tbsp of olive oil.  Add the dried lemon pieces with a pinch of sugar and salt.  Cook the lemons until caramelized on both sides, about 5 minutes.  Transfer to a plate. 

Melt the butter and remaining olive oil.  Add the lemon zest, chili flakes, and cured olives, cooking until fragrant.  Whisk in 1/2 cup pasta water, stirring until combined and just starting to thicken.  Toss in pasta, juice of one lemon, cheese, salt and pepper.  Add more pasta water if necessary.  Using tongs, toss pasta until it is well coated.  Add caramelized lemon slices, parsley and capers.  

Serve immediately with more cheese and parsley and a drizzle of olive oil.