Spaghetti with Caramelized Lemon, Capers, and Black Olives

Sometimes all I need is a big bowl of spaghetti.  It's the twirling of the strands, the tender mouthfeel of perfectly cooked pasta, and the luxury of eating pure carbs for dinner.  Spaghetti, more than any other shape, is one of my ultimate comfort foods and I crave a heaping portion more often than my digestive tract would like.  No regrets!

Last night was one of those occasions, and when combined with that gnawing feeling of being poor, it makes for a satisfying and affordable weekday dinner.

If you have lemons and olive oil you can transform anything into a solid meal, but kick it up with other pantry staples like cured olives, capers, and parsley and now you have a dish to be proud of.  This meal couldn't be simpler, and any good cook can throw together a pasta dish, but this one is so balanced and flavorful that it guarantees to leave an impression.

To sip with our spaghetti we stayed frugal and opened a bottle of Franz Etz Gruner Veltliner from Austria.  Gruner, as I've mentioned before, is an under-appreciated grape that is a wonderful pairing with most of the foods I eat on a regular basis.  Think vegetables, salads, and fish.  It has a green, grassy flavor that is bolstered by notes of just under-ripe pear, honeydew melon, and chamomile.  The 2013 bottling from Franz Etz is particularly delightful and still tasty the next day when the acid has mellowed just a touch.  It paired perfectly with the sweet, tangy flavor of the caramelized lemons and held its own against the savory olives and capers, lightening up their pungency.  Also, like the M. Hofer Gruner I've written about, the Etz comes in a full liter at the exceptional price of $10 per bottle.  You cannot go wrong here. 

*Full disclosure: this whole post is totally inspired by Melissa Clark's genius recipe in the New York Times.  Apparently this recipe was the NYTimes' most popular in all of 2014, no surprise there.  Hers is a bit simpler and a perfect springboard into mine, which is a touch more savory and complicated.

SPAGHETTI with CARAMELIZED LEMON, CAPERS, and BLACK OLIVES
serves 4

4 lemons
1 pound spaghetti 
4 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp capers
pinch of sugar
1 tbsp butter
1 tsp red chili flakes
handful cured black olives
2 /3 cup grated parmesan, plus more for serving
2/3 cup chopped parsley, plus more for serving
salt and pepper

Bring a large pot of water to boil.  Meanwhile, zest 2 of the lemons and set aside.  Trim the tops and bottoms off the other two lemons and cut into quarters; remove seeds.  Cut them crosswise into small triangles.  Blanch the lemon pieces in the boiling water.  This helps to break down the pith and rind and removes their bitterness.  Using a slotted spoon, remove them and set aside to dry on a paper towel. 

In the boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente.  Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta water. 

Meanwhile, in a skillet, heat up 1 tbsp olive oil.  When shimmering, fry the capers until just crispy - only about 30 seconds.  Transfer to a paper towel to drain. 

In the same skillet, heat another tbsp of olive oil.  Add the dried lemon pieces with a pinch of sugar and salt.  Cook the lemons until caramelized on both sides, about 5 minutes.  Transfer to a plate. 

Melt the butter and remaining olive oil.  Add the lemon zest, chili flakes, and cured olives, cooking until fragrant.  Whisk in 1/2 cup pasta water, stirring until combined and just starting to thicken.  Toss in pasta, juice of one lemon, cheese, salt and pepper.  Add more pasta water if necessary.  Using tongs, toss pasta until it is well coated.  Add caramelized lemon slices, parsley and capers.  

Serve immediately with more cheese and parsley and a drizzle of olive oil.  

Cacio e Pepe with Peas and Mushrooms

I'm having a fling with Italy at the moment.  All sorts of cheese and pasta and pizzas.  It is simplicity and freshness, combined to create extremely satisfying, indulgent, wine-friendly meals.  Perfect early summer fare for those still chilly nights, when turning on the oven is actually kinda welcome but eating a piping hot stew seems wrong.

This pasta recipe is a new staple in our weeknight repertoire.  It is e a s y and takes about 30 minutes - last night I had dinner on the table before 8pm, to which Daniel insisted was too early for his internal clock to handle and he would need a few more minutes to work up an appetite.  He kids.  More after-dinner time for Orange is the New Black + wine is a grand accomplishment thank you very much.

I adapted this slightly from The New York Times recipe for cacio e pepe with fava beans and peas, but the essentials are still there.  Cracked black pepper, pasta, cheese.  Make sure to coarsely grind your peppercorns because nobody, Daniel especially, enjoys whole nuggets of pepper that disconcertingly crunch between your teeth.  And don't forget the pecorino or wimp out when it would just be so much easier to only have to buy classic parm.  I feel you, but I was once informed that it is the king of cheeses and it is absolutely necessary to add the punch and creaminess that parmesan cannot.  More importantly that begs the question, but what (who?) is the queen cheese?  I'm leaning towards some kind of feta for her sharp wit and easy going deliciousness, or maybe a creamy, stinky blue - either you can hang with that bitch or not but she couldn't give a shit.  Anyways.

Chives are an unexpected and delightful garnish, so don't skimp.

Finally, don't forget the wine!  The sharpness and heat of the black pepper beg for a fruitier, juicier red.  Sticking with Italy, we enjoyed Andrea Oberto's 2012 Dolcetto D'Alba from Piedmont.  While better known for their serious Barolos, this producer has the skills, experience and some damn good grapes, which are handled with the gentle adeptness of someone who has been in the vineyards his entire life.   The finished wine has a fresh, fruit-forward nose followed by subtle tannins, happy notes of plum and blueberry, and a faint earthiness.  A little kick of acidity kept it alive while still finishing with a lovely roundness and depth.  All in all, a wonderful weeknight wine for our wonderful weeknight pasta.  A meal to be played on repeat.

CACIO E PEPE with PEAS and MUSHROOMS
serves 3 - 4

12 oz pasta of your choice; spaghetti is most traditional
1 cup peas, fresh or frozen
1 lb crimini mushrooms, sliced
2 1/2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 cup grated pecorino 
1/2 cup grated parmesan
olive oil and sea salt, for serving
clipped chives, for garnish

Bring a small pot of salted water to boil.  Add a pinch of sugar.  Blanch your peas for 2 minutes and immediately drain and transfer to a fine mesh sieve placed over a bowl of ice water. 

Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil.  Add pasta and cook until just 1 minute shy of al dente.  Drain, reserving 2/3 cup pasta water.

Meanwhile, sauté the mushrooms in batches, making sure not to crowd the pan.  Season with salt as you cook.  Set aside. 

In a large skillet, melt 1 1/2 tbsp butter.  Add the cracked pepper and sauté for 1 minute, or until fragrant.  Add about 1/3 pasta water and the rest of the butter, letting it simmer for about 30 seconds, or until slightly reduced and thicker.  

Add cooked pasta and cheeses, tossing until the cheese melts.  Add mushrooms and peas, tossing to coat, adding more pasta water if it appears dry.  Season with salt to taste.  Serve with a drizzle of olive oil, chives, and more grated cheese.  

Really Delicious Banana Bread for Hectic Mornings

Now that every last grape has been picked, tanked, and put to sleep for the winter, harvest season in Northern California's wine country is officially over.  Recently I've spent a little time reflecting on what worked this year and how I can improve my routine for next year's marathon.  During this autumnal push, our schedule is at the mercy of ripening grapes, sorting tables, and all things fermenting, which means early to work and working late.  To ease Daniel into this uncivilized schedule, I took it upon myself to be the peppy and productive master of the 7am kitchen.  I love mornings and naturally am quite good at rolling out of bed and straight to the cutting board.  There is something mindless (yet wholly satisfying) about making coffee and toast in the morning.  Slowly I awaken, my body adjusts.

Often avocado toast is the favorite.  Bread, olive oil, avocado, lemon, salt.  Substantial without being weighty.  Deceitfully healthy.  Ambitious mornings call for an egg or a slice of cured salmon.  Not so ambitious mornings call for a slice of sweet quick bread, baked the night before.

Despite my talent for early morning competence behind the stove, there are definitely days when I'm overjoyed to spend another few precious moments under the covers, especially when I know Daniel won't be home until I am back in that very same bed, alone.  As life gets busier and busier - and it will - it is an absolute necessity to have a few reliable quick bread recipes that allow you to linger for just a few more minutes before greeting the day.  Where to begin?  Banana, obviously.








































I played around with a lot of recipes to find my perfect banana bread.  I want mine to be full of banananess and quite moist.  And there should be a significant degree of healthiness - if this is going to be breakfast on a regular basis then it better have some nutrients and whole grains.  None of that "but it's a muffin!" when really it's just a piece of cake without the frosting.  That means low in sugar, lots of fruit, and maybe even a little protein.  I tried recipes with honey, applesauce, and one with a splash of bourbon (for that early morning kick, no?).  All were pretty good, but one stood out and forever will be my standby banana bread recipe.  It's beyond easy (it's a make and bake while prepping for dinner kinda bread) and your lover will thank you.  For the extra moments you linger in bed, but more for that delicious slice of breakfast that you'll serve up without a fuss.

DAMN GOOD BANANA BREAD
makes 1 9inch loaf pan

2 cups whole wheat flour
3/4 cup brown sugar
3/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup toasted, chopped walnuts (optional)
1 - 2 tsp cinnamon
3 very ripe bananas, mashed well
1 just ripe banana,  coarsely chopped
1/4 cup plain yogurt
2 eggs
5 tbsp butter, melted
1 tsp vanilla

Heat oven to 350 degrees.  Butter and flour a 9 inch loaf pan.

Mix the first 6 ingredients in a large mixing bowl.  

Mix mashed bananas, chopped banana, yogurt, eggs, butter and vanilla in another large bowl.  Gently fold banana mixture into the dry ingredients until just combined and batter looks thick and chunky.  

Scrape batter into prepared pan and bake for about an hour, or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean.  Cool.  Serve at room temperature or warmed with a little more butter. 

A very satisfying slice of pizza.

Happy Holidays!  I'm sure most of you thought I'd perished in some kind of turkey brining accident or was left behind at that Mexican disco bar we swung by on New Year's Eve.  But no, folks, no.  I've been adventuring and exploring and creating and doing a whole lot of eating.  For whatever reason, this page has been the least of my worries, which I regret.  Keeping you in the dark about what we're cooking up in California?  For shame.  Apologies all around!  To make up for it, I leave you with this delightful pizza post.  Because:

We make a lot of pizza.  And you should too.  Because it's easy.  Because it's delicious.  Because it's fun.  Because it's cheap.  Because it goes so nicely with wine.  Because we can make enough for two or twenty without having to think too much.  Because because because.

Recently, I tackled a new pizza topping, for me at least.  Both Daniel and I have tasted this pizza many times, but I hadn't put the effort in to recreating it at home.  Our friend, the excellent chef and author of her own slice of blogosphere at http://butterdate.blogspot.com/ is a master of this pie and proudly contributes it to every pizza party.  Unfortunately, we live many miles apart and are not treated to this deliciousness enough, and so we made it ourselves.

Some might call it a dessert pizza, but I think the combination of sweet and savory is perfect for a main course.  Do pair it with a glass of the 2009 Vaona Valpolicella, which has enough acidity and vibrance to play nicely with the toppings.  This pizza is addictive, and it's all about the sauce.

Salsa di noci.  Nut sauce.  Walnut sauce.

WALNUT and HONEY PESTO
adapted from Epicurious

2 cups walnuts, toasted
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup honey
2 tbsp fresh thyme
salt and pepper  

In a food processor, combine all ingredients and whir until a thick pesto forms.  Season with salt and pepper.  

Roll out your pizza dough, slather with walnut pesto, top with sliced pears and crumbled blue cheese.  Bake until bubbly and crust is fully cooked and starting to brown.  Lightly dress arugula with olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a hit of lemon juice.  Top pizza with the greens, pour yourself another glass of wine and eat eat eat!

The walnut sauce is the genius behind this snappy pizza, but it could be used in a variety of dishes, both sweet and savory.  Drizzle it over vanilla ice cream!  Or spread it on sour dough with goat cheese and fresh figs.  Eat it with a spoon or as a dip with salty pretzels.  The key is a gorgeous balance of sweet and savory, nutty and herbal, earthy and floral.  It is so so so good.

As requested, next up will be my top ten recipes from 2012.  For my mother, of course.